Learn why so many cooling units fail today and what we are doing about it.  Read below to learn how you can get a Lifetime Limited Warranty on a cooling unit purchase from RVCOOL

 

 

What is the #1 cause of failure in today's rv refrigerator cooling units?  The short answer is overheating the boiler section.

 

Below are two pictures that indicate what is meant by the boiler section.

 

                                         

 

The boiler section is the part of the rv refrigerator where heat, by either electric or propane, starts the refrigeration process. When a cooling unit is operated level, has the correct heat input, and has good ventilation, the unit runs at a safe temperature (with just a few exceptions) and can expect a long happy life.  But when one of these components is missing, bad things happen to the cooling unit. When the cooling unit reaches a critical temperature, the refrigerant in the system starts breaking down (see picture on left). This may be noticeable in small increments by a fridge that doesn't get as cold as it used to and progressively gets worse, or the unit all of a sudden ruptures in the boiler tubing, causing a release of all the refrigerant. These ruptures are caused by fatigue cracks in the boiler tubing. These fatigue cracks form for two reasons: First, the heating of the boiler by its heat sources causes thermal expansion and contraction along the weld seams. Every time the unit cycles on and off, thermal expansion takes place. The tubing that the factories use isn't heavy enough to handle the stress and eventually forms stress cracks along the welds in the boiler. Second: overheating causes a breakdown of the refrigerant and its additive sodium chromate. The picture to the left shows the inside of a boiler that was allowed to overheat. The brown sludge is sodium chromate that reached a critical temperature and solidified.  Along with the sludged chromate are also flakes of metal from the interior walls of the boiler. When the sodium chromate breaks down, the interior walls of the boiler tubing are destroyed which make the already too thin tubing even weaker until fatigue cracks form, causing a release of the refrigerant ammonia and hydrogen. There have been several rv fires in recent years linked to the boiler failure in the cooling unit. Even if a fridge fire isn't the end result, the cooling unit is still destroyed and in need of replacing.

 

So, the big question is how can this type of failure be avoided in the future?

 

Two ways:

1. Build a "bulletproof" boiler:  Which is where RVCOOL comes in. We use heavier tubing in our boilers than any cooling unit builder in the country. Heavier than Dometic, heavier than Norcold and heavier than the so called "Amish Built" cooling units. But just using heavier tubing isn't going to make the cooling unit  last longer. The boiler must be designed properly so it runs at a safe temperature that won't damage the refrigerant in the system.  Which is why we have done extensive studies on ammonia boilers and their design. We use that latest, most "state of the art" software to evaluate and graph the performance of our boilers. Our studies have given us a far better understanding of how ammonia boilers work, and what they need to last longer.  Our heavier boilers are Safer than boilers built by any of our competitors. In fact, in the past 10 years RVCOOL has never had one of our heavier boiler rupture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Control the heat in the boiler:  which is where the "ARP RV Refrigerator Control" comes in. The ARP is a control board and sensor that monitors the boiler temperature of any RV/Camper refrigerator. If it detects an increase in the boiler temperature it momentarily disconnects power to the boiler heat source. Once the boiler returns to a safe operating temperature, it turns the heat source back on and the customer never notices a loss of cooling inside the fridge. The ingenious part is the ARP Control is that it never lets the fridge overheat to the point that it damages the refrigerant.

 Remember the three things an rv refrigerator needs....must be operated level, has the correct heat input, and has good ventilation. Well, today's recreational vehicles don't always meet these requirements. RV owners are often boon-docking in un-level parking lots, pulling up and down long steep grades,  many towable campers don't set level on the tow vehicle. Each of these things will overheat the cooling unit boiler, damaging both the refrigerant and the boiler tubing, thus significantly shortening the life of the refrigerator. Un-level operation can destroy a cooling unit faster than almost anything else and if extreme enough, can ruin the cooling unit in a matter of hours.  Slighter instance will have a cumulative affect on the cooling unit, but will shorten the life.  I am often asked why today's rv refrigerators  don't last as long as those built 20 years ago, and I give three reasons, 1) the way they are built 2) the way they are operated as I described above.  3) ventilation problems from the way they are installed by some rv manufacturers. The biggest ventilation problems I see are from rv refrigerator installed in a slide-out room. An rv owner can do everything right and always level your rv/camper and the refrigerator can fail all of a sudden from overheating due to ventilation problems with the slide-out room. Because the slide-out room doesn't have a roof vent, the refrigerator relies on cooling fans to keep the unit from overheating. If the fans fail or the limit switch doesn't turn the fans on at the right time, the cooling unit can be destroyed very quickly. In extreme heat, even  properly operating fans aren't always enough to keep the cooling unit from overheating especially larger refrigerators like the Norcold 1200, N1200, 1200LRIM and the Dometic RM7732, 1292, NDR1292, RM1350 etc.

 

 

The facts are: If you build a heavier boiler that wont fatigue from the heat applied to the boiler and you control the boiler temperature so you never destroy the refrigerant, your rv refrigerator should outlast your camper and maybe even you :)

 

NOTICE

We are no longer a dealer or distributor for the ARP control. If you would like to purchase a control you can do so by going to their website www.arprv.com and ordering directly from them.

**Please Note** we do not advise using this control as a "safety" device or  a "fire prevention" device. This control will extent the life of an rv refrigerator cooling unit if certain conditions are met:

1. It must be on the unit since it was brand new. Because you do not know how much the internal boiler has already been degraded from overheating (see pictures above), it is not safe to use this control on a used factory cooling unit as a "safety" or a "fire prevention" device.

2. The boiler design of the cooling unit must be such that thermal stress from ordinary use will not cause premature failure.  OEM cooling units will rarely, if ever, fall into this category. Amish aftermarket units do not meet this requirement.

 

With that being said... It will work well on our replacement cooling units because of our innovative boiler design, and if its is installed on cooling unit when it is brand new, it will significantly extend the useful life of the cooling unit. 

 

 

The basic ARP v2.0 control can be purchased separate for $130 + shipping.

The ARP v2.1 (with fan control) can be purchased separate for $175 + shipping.

 

 

To learn more about the ARP Control you can visit their website

 www.arprv.com

 

 

 

 

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